[I'm away till mid-April, normal service will resume after that.]

[I'm now only stocking Vibram rubbers, XS Edge and XS Grip2.]

How do I pay?

How long will it take?

What rubber do you use?

Will my rock shoes still feel the same?

How about my down-turned shoes?

What if they start to delaminate?

Do I need the rands repairing?

Can you do previously resoled shoes?

Can you resole Futuras/Speedsters?





How do I pay?

Read the pricing page.



How long will it take?

Turnaround is normally between one and two weeks, sometimes abit longer if I'm really busy. If you need shoes done by a certain date then contact me first to check.

I don't start work until I've received payment and queue shoes up in the order they are paid so a quick payment helps with a quick turnaround.



Can you do my approach / fell running / skate shoes?

Yes - see the Dotty Rubber page.



What rubber do you use?


5.10 Stealth C4 (4.2mm)

5.10 Stealth Onyxx (4.2mm)

Vibram XS Edge (4mm)

Vibram XS Grip2 (3.5mm)

My take on modern rubbers is that there is not as much of a difference between them in terms of grip as people like to think but there is huge difference in stiffness. The difference between flexibility in a sheet of C4 and XS Grip2 is obvious as soon as you pick it up, whereas the debate about what rubber is stickiest will continue unanswered on UKC forums for years to come.

The list above is in order of stiffness, with C4 being the stiffest. The softer the rubber the greater the sensitivity, the stiffer the rubber the more suport it'll give and the more hard-wearing it'll be - no rubber is really better they just do different jobs.

If you know what you want then I'll put on whatever you ask for. If you don't know I'll put the original rubber back on or the closest I can to it if its not something I stock.


For those that are interested here's a slightly American film with Stealth's inventor, Charles Cole, talking about 5.10 rubber and how its made.




Will my rock shoes still feel the same?

The simple answer is no, there will always be some degree of change. Putting a new 4mm piece of rubber where there was only a sole that had worn thin around your foot is always going to feel different. Normally a resoled shoe will feel a little snugger or slightly lower volume when you first put it on. A resoled shoe will often (but not always, see below) take a bit of climbing to break back in but much less so than a brand new pair of rock shoes would.

Here what customers have said about fit via e-mail or on UKC ;

"Thanks v much for the resoles that you thinned down for me (Miuras), they're great and I've been able to try tricky routes straightaway in them whereas usually it takes me ages to break them in enough.  Great job, will definitely recommend you and will be sending you more!"

"Tested out my resoled Scarpas yesterday, they were great, felt like new, yet comfortable and no need to break in, best of both worlds."

"Top job on my La Sportiva Solutions... Which must have been a right faff as my toes were pretty much coming through. Rubber and fit is now miles better than before. They even stuck to the polish in Parasella's!"

"Just got my Evolv Shaman back........ They are a little tighter than before I sent them ( closer to when they were new) and look spot on."

Most modern shoes don't have a stiff board last inside, so the sole and rand is all that's holding the toe box in shape, doing a resole before the rand needs replacing makes it much easier to retain the original shape of the shoe.




How about my down-turned shoes?

A common complaint I hear from resoles done in the UK is that the more extreme down-turned performance shoes come back changed the most. Quite why I'm not sure as it's surprisingly easy to keep a down-turn in a shoe. I think mainly its just a case of knowing that its meant to be that way and wanting to keep it like that.

(a well used 5.10 Team, resoled with rand patch)

Knowing the specific shoe also helps, for example the difference between a normal Katana and the lace version is quite pronounced with regard to the amount of down-turn and hollow, knowing what each new shoe looks like gives me a reference point when putting the soles back on. (If I get a shoe in I haven't seen before I normally drop in to one of the shops in town and have a quick look at a new one.)

As a climber myself I understand the huge affect the fit of your shoes has on your performance, particularly on steeper or more technical ground and my aim is to be able to resole your shoes well no matter how hard you want to climb with them.




What if they start to delaminate?

I make every effort to ensure you shoes don't delaminate but it can happen and no resoler I know of has a 100% success rate, even original soles are not free from delamination - some brands more so than others.

It can be hard to tell if a new sole has really stuck well until you climb on it so it is possible that your shoes may delaminate a little in the first few sessions of climbing.

Climbing shoes are subject to vastly different amounts of wear so its hard to give time limits on things like this - I've resoled a 30 year old pair of shoes that were still in amazingly good condition and a pair that were only 5 weeks old and already worn through at the toe!

If you do have any delamination within the first 30 days I'll fix itand return them to you for free. Anything after that is up to my discretion.

Please remember that the glue in rock shoes is heat sensitive, leaving shoes on the back shelf of a car on a sunny day can be enough to release the glue and lead to a delamination. The same goes for a hot wash in your washing-machine or a radiator.

If you have any problems at all with your shoes get back in touch straight away and I'll see what I can do to sort the problem out.




Do I need the rands repairing?

Unlike some of the other UK resolers, I'll only do your rands if they really need doing as its easier to keep the original fit without doing the rands (I know I said that already but it worth saying twice!). So get them done before the rands go through if you can.

If you have any kind of hole in the rand then they'll need repairing, also if the are noticeable soft spots or the start or crack/tears in the rand then they'll need doing.

The only exception to this is if the hole or crack is under the line that a new sole will cover up, then they may be ok. Sometimes what seems like a cut in your rand is just the original manufacturing cut that has been revealed as your sole wore back from the toe.

(both the rands on these pinks pictured would need doing, the right less obviously so but it does has a definite thin spot and the start of a hole.)

(don't let your shoes get this far gone!.)

The rands may need doing even if they seem ok to you, I have to grind the existing rubber to create a fresh, clean surface that will glue well and there needs to be enough rubber left to let me do this. If I think the rand needs doing and you weren't expecting it then I'll contact you.

The rand wraps underneath the sole so has to be replaced as part of a full resole.

Can you do previously resoled shoes?

I don't normally do previously resoled shoe as often the process other resolers use is subtely different and that makes it hard for me to go over their work and still produce a good result. I'd always recommend sending them back to the original resoler.

However if you had your shoes done outsdie the UK then thats not really an option so get in touch and I can probably do them for you - if they have been done by a UK resoler please dont send them in as I wont be able to do them.

It is surprisingly easy to tell where a shoe has been resoled before as the style (and quality!) of work is very different from different people.


Can you resole Futuras/Speedsters?

I can put the sole back edgeless or with a traditional edge if you prefer. If you don't state a preference I'll do them edgeless in XS Grip2 3.5mm rubber like the originals.